From mismatched statement earrings to the tightest luxury chokers, these are the essential fine jewellery trends to see you through the season.
A beautiful earring can so easily lose points when it is flipped over to reveal an ugly patchwork of stone settings and undecorated metal. With sleek pony tails being one of the key hair trends this season, and big earrings the must-have jewellery look, the backs of your earrings need to be as opulent as the front.
Photos: Dauphin Adam Katz Earrings.
Look for designs that consider the aesthetics of the earring from every angle to create 360° glamour. Luxury houses will often pay special attention to the backs of earrings, adorning them with pretty enamel artworks, extra gemstones or instructing their goldsmiths to create intricate etchings in the metal.
Photos: Chaumet est une fête Pastorale Anglaise Earrings and Dior à Versailles, côté Jardins Boucle D'oreilles Bosquet du theatre D'eau Tormalina Paraiba.
The tassel earring is a jewellery box classic, and by the nature of its opulent drops – usually strings of tiny pearls clustered together, or perhaps briolette gemstones – it has every angle covered. Opting for a drop that is a large carved gemstone, or smooth elongated cabochon, will also ensure that whipping up your hair on the way to the dance floor will not expose any unsightly settings.
When it comes to diamond earrings, the less metal the better – avoid heavy networks of visible settings lurking behind the sparkle. Nirav Modi, for example, specialises in bespoke diamond cuts set in the most minimal of settings to ensure the gems have full reign to shine, and, by happy accident, this means they look as good on your departure as your arrival.
Photos: Nirav Modi Luminance Cascade Earrings and Boucheron Hiver Imperial Rostov Earrings Atelier.
The biggest jewellery trend of the season, other than enormous earrings in general, is earrings that don’t match. Well, that’s not strictly true; they have been meticulously designed to make a complementary match if not an identical one.
Photos: De Grisogono The World of Diamonds Melody of Diamonds earrings and Chopard Earrings.
A quick glance at the catwalks for this season and next will throw up myriad examples of these exuberant, fun asymmetric earrings. Haute joaillerie collections have also favoured mismatched designs, though many have devised more elegant names for them – duets, couplets. Popular, too, are earrings sold singly, allowing you to mix your own concoction or simply pair with a bare lobe.
The variations on this rebellious theme are vast. There are the simple twists, such as flipping the positions or colours of stones, or the youthful stud and long drop combination. Then there are the more lavish displays of difference with completely opposing colours, designs, proportions and materials vying for your attention. Go crazy.
Photo: Dior à Versailles, côté Jardins Boucles D'oreilles Bosquet Des Domes Diamant.
The brooch is no longer the domain of the dowager. There is a new breed of slick, luxurious, even clever, brooches that are attracting a younger crowd of both men and women, who are finding modern ways to wear them.
The catwalks were peppered with just such adornments, covering top buttons, clustering on cardigans and pepping up evening suits. Find them also on bags, lighting up dark coats and even weaving into hair – brooches worn as hair jewellery is another cutting-edge look for black ties, red carpets and weddings.
Photos: De Beers Blooming Lotus High Jewellery Brooch and Fei Liu Unicorn Brooch Fei Liu Fine Jewellery.
Scale is a matter of taste. While some enjoy the lavish look of a large brooch, and jewellery designers are more than happy to oblige, there is an alternative style set that beckons smaller pins into their lives. These miniature brooches are usually found in groupings for a bigger impact. Chaumet recently unveiled small-scale diamond and coloured gemstone brooches within its Chaumet est une Fête collection that it believes will appeal to men wishing to liven lapels as much as women.
Photos: Chaumet est une fête Rhapsodie Transatlantique.
Rolling diamonds. Those two words have a magical quality to them, much like rolling mountains or rolling clouds. Ethereal, untouchable, beautiful nature. They are also bang on trend for this season.
Photo: Van Cleef and Arpels LeSecret Journalistes Bague Lune Ring.
Photos: Chopard Happy Hearts Bangle and Earrings.
Messika is one of the pioneers of this movement, creating her signature Move collection when first starting out as a designer. Its construction is a simple one, but its appeal is intoxicating. Three diamonds – or more, should budget allow – are wrapped in bezel settings and constricted between bars of gold that designer Valerie Messika has likened to train tracks. The diamonds are given just enough space to roll from side to side, but not enough to fall out.
Photos: Messika Manchette move infinie and Messika Bracelet Move Limited.
Just as beguiling are trapped diamonds, and despite this description, they have even more freedom to move. Brazilian designer Moritz Glik has built his brand around this concept, encasing fistfuls of diamonds or coloured gemstones within crystal windows, allowing them to tumble and slide as the jewel succumbs to the movement of its wearer.
Such movement in jewellery creates an unusual and beautiful sparkle, but it also makes for a delicious temptation to fidget. Though I’ll take one of Reena Alhuwalia's playful spinning jewels over a fidget spinner any day.
Photo: Moritz Glik Necklace and Earrings.
Photo: Coronet By Reena Ahluwalia, Soul Carousel Spinning Diamonds Gemstones Necklace.
Another of the season’s key jewellery looks is the choker. What started off as a summery homage to 90s fashion has deepened into the reawakening of one of jewellery’s most ostentatious design icons.
Photo: Ole Lyngaard, Special Piece Shooting Stars Choker.
Depending on your style, there are many ways to wear chokers. Opt for the classic black velvet strip (or leather for a more up-to-date take on this trend) across the throat, livened perhaps with a gold, pearl or diamond embellishment. Or for a real red carpet moment, multiply the carat count and strap a lavish brocade of diamonds tight around your neck. For a choker collection that manages to encompass both these looks (and more besides), seek out London-based French jewellery designer Anissa Kermiche – a talented rising star in fine jewellery.
Photo: Anissa Kermiche, 18-karat gold, sapphire, pearl and diamond choker.
Photo: Nirav Modi Mughal Flower Choker.
Chokers are not just for night-time adventures, however, they can be worn in the daytime too. Keep it light and elegant for sun-up adornment to avoid looking like a teenager in fancy dress. Simple chains ratcheted tight and adorned with delicate diamond details give a touch of luxury without overkill, and can be layered with other chokers and short necklaces to create a relaxed, boho style.
Photo: Diane Kordas Black Leather Star Chain Choker.
Photo: Polina Sapouna Ellis Terthrippon choker with Brown diamonds.