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By Rachael Taylor | 17 December 2018

Modern twists on classic engagement rings

A solo round brilliant diamond, held in place by six claws: this simple setting has become an engagement ring staple at boutiques all over the world. It is referred to as the Tiffany setting in homage to its creator, whether it is sold in a little blue box or not, and when Tiffany & Co first debuted this style of capturing a diamond in 1886, it was revolutionary.

The Tiffany setting was the first engagement ring to lift the diamond off the band, and Tiffany & Co founder Charles Lewis Tiffany did this so that more light could pass through the diamond, creating a dazzling sparkle. Thanks to his early innovation, this style has become the standard bearer in diamond rings, and our hands shine all the brighter for it.

Tiffany & Co remains a stalwart of the engagement ring market, with thousands of couples flocking to its stores each year to select a ring. While the Tiffany setting remains its most enduring style, the American jewellery brand diversified this year with the introduction of its first new engagement ring design in more than a decade.

What is so striking about the new Tiffany & Co True engagement ring is that while the original Tiffany setting became a star for its simplicity, True’s allure lies in its modern complexity. One of Tiffany & Co’s most popular modern collections is Tiffany T, a line of jewellery that celebrates the bold, geometric form of the brand’s initial. Though not immediately obvious, if you twist the shank to look at the True ring side on, you will see that the basket-style setting is crafted into four T shapes that cup a squared fancy-cut diamond.

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Tiffany True 63594873 Rg Side 2Ct W Engage Mod

Photos: Tiffany & Co True engagement rings

Such twisting of a classic design, and introducing modernity to tradition, is a key trend in engagement rings right now. While most brides-to-be still hanker after a diamond solitaire, there is a real desire to play with the design that holds this customary choice of stone.

Geometric jewels are very much in vogue right now, and this is influencing bridal collections such as Tiffany & Co’s True. Zoe & Morgan has also gone down the linear route, trapping an emerald-cut diamond solitaire within a cross shape in its Holos design. Shimmel & Madden’s Four Circle ring uses a beautifully textured gold double band and concentric circles to create a precious lattice that orbits a single round brilliant diamond.

Zoe Morgan Yellow Gold And Emerald Cut Diamond Holos Engagement Ring
Shimmel And Madden Yellow Gold And Round Diamond Four Circle Ring

Photos: Zoe & Morgan yellow gold and emerald-cut diamond Holos engagement ring and Shimmel and Madden yellow gold and round diamond Four Circle ring

For a simpler version of the double-band twist, try Rachel Boston’s minimalist Carina engagement ring, set with an Asscher-cut diamond.

Rachel Boston White Gold And Asscher Cut Diamond Carina Ring
Rachel Boston Carina Ring Lifestyle

Photos: Rachel Boston white gold and Asscher cut diamond Carina ring

While known for her intricate filigree work, Arabel Lebrusan also has a simple Hestia solitaire ring in her collection, but has engraved the Fairtrade gold band with scrolls to create an Arts & Crafts-style design. Ruth Tomlinson also takes an artisan approach to her engagement rings, one of which sets an antique-cut white diamond on a yellow gold band that is embellished with gold granulation.

Arabel Lebrusan Engraved Fairtrade White Gold And Diamond Hestia Ring
Ruth Tomlinson Yellow Gold Granulation And Round Diamond Ring

Photos: Arabel Lebrusan engraved Fairtrade white gold and diamond Hestia ring and Ruth Tomlinson yellow gold granulation and round diamond ring

The solitaire may be well be an engagement ring design of old, but with stylish twists borrowed from fashion, brides can have something new. And if you feel like swapping gold for titanium, as Glenn Spiro did for his I Do collection, you can even have something blue too.

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Photo: Gelnn Spiro blued titanium and diamond I Do ring